Ocean waves can vary in size due to several factors. The primary factors that cause waves to get bigger or smaller include:
Wind speed and duration: Wind is the primary driving force behind wave formation. When wind blows across the surface of the ocean, it transfers energy to the water, creating waves. The stronger and more prolonged the wind, the larger the waves will become.
Fetch: Fetch refers to the distance over which the wind blows across the water's surface. A longer fetch allows waves to develop and grow larger. If the wind blows over a shorter distance, waves will be smaller.
Wind consistency: Waves tend to grow larger if the wind blows consistently in one direction over an extended period. If the wind changes direction frequently or is intermittent, the waves will be smaller and less organized.
Water depth: The depth of the water affects wave behavior. In shallow water, waves become steeper and taller. As waves approach the shore and the water becomes shallower, they slow down, causing the wave height to increase.
Ocean currents: Currents can influence wave size by either enhancing or dampening wave energy. When waves encounter a favorable current direction, they can combine with the current's flow, resulting in larger waves. Conversely, opposing currents can diminish wave size.
Seafloor shape: The shape and contours of the seafloor play a role in wave behavior. When waves encounter shallower areas, such as sandbars or reefs, they can break and become larger. In contrast, if the seafloor is gently sloping or deep, waves will typically be smaller.
Storm systems: Storms, such as tropical cyclones or intense low-pressure systems, generate powerful winds and can create large and dangerous waves. These storms can produce massive swells that can travel across vast distances, resulting in larger waves when they reach coastal areas.
It's important to note that these factors can interact with each other, leading to complex wave patterns. Additionally, other factors, such as tidal forces and gravitational influences from celestial bodies like the Moon and Sun, can also have secondary effects on wave size.