Waves themselves do not pull you out into the ocean. Instead, the movement of waves in the ocean can contribute to a phenomenon known as a rip current, which can pull swimmers away from shore. Rip currents are powerful, narrow channels of water that flow seaward from the shoreline, perpendicular to the beach.
Here's how the process typically occurs:
Wave Breaking: As waves approach the shoreline, they start to interact with the bottom of the ocean floor. When the wave height becomes significant enough, the wave will break near the shore. Breaking waves often occur in sets, with periods of larger waves followed by smaller ones.
Water Accumulation: As waves break, the water that rushes towards the shore needs to return back to the ocean. This water gathers in areas of lower resistance, such as channels or gaps between sandbars. This accumulation can form a temporary excess of water close to the shoreline.
Rip Current Formation: The excess water from wave breaking seeks a way to return to the open ocean. It typically finds a path of least resistance through a narrow opening in the sandbars or other submerged features on the ocean floor. This concentrated flow of water creates a rip current, which can be strong and swift, flowing directly away from the shore.
Outward Pull: Once a rip current is formed, it can pull anything floating or swimming in the water along with it. If a swimmer is caught in a rip current, they may feel a strong pull seaward, away from the safety of the shoreline. It is important to note that rip currents do not pull swimmers underwater; they pull them away from the shore.
It's crucial to be aware of rip currents and understand how to react if you find yourself caught in one. If you get caught in a rip current, the recommended course of action is to remain calm, conserve energy, and avoid trying to swim against the current directly back to shore. Instead, swim parallel to the shoreline until you are out of the rip current's pull, then swim at an angle back to shore or signal for assistance if needed.
Remember to always heed warnings from lifeguards and be mindful of beach safety guidelines to minimize the risks associated with rip currents and other potential hazards in the ocean.